A Few Concrete Suggestions

Up until a few years ago, my professional experience was in industries including retail, energy, health care, and fast food. In 1996 circumstances and opportunity led me into the manufacturing, marketing, and installation of products used for Floor Warming, Total Space Heating, Roof Snow and Ice Melting and Snow and Ice Melting of driving and walking surfaces.

Since three out of the four applications for my company's products may be installed into new pour cementitious material like concrete, I quickly determined two things: first, that anything embedded into cementitious materials is only as good as that cementitious material; and second, that the long term happiness and satisfaction of my many of my customers was dependent on the integrity and quality of the work of others. What I did not know, but I have since discovered, is that not all concrete work is of the same quality and that while my company's heating element carries a 25 year warranty, concrete warranties are generally relatively short. As a result of this discrepancy in horizons, I quickly determined that if I wanted to be successful I needed to learn more about concrete, its installation, and the preparation required to insure a high quality job.

Since making that determination I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to observe and evaluate many new concrete pours and examine a lot of very old, yet still perfectly good, concrete. As a result of these opportunities I have noted several things that exceptional concrete professionals routinely do and I am convinced that these things, along with high quality materials, result in superior concrete projects. For more information go to : http://www.warmquest.com

Please note that I am not a concrete professional and that my motivations for writing this article are limited to attempting to insure that:

a) your concrete will look as good as possible and last for many years in the future; and,

b) if you elect to install my company's snow and ice melt products, or anyone else's for that matter, it is able to serve its intended purpose for many years to come.

Now for a Few Concrete Suggestions:

Professionals: Always use professionals that have a proven track record and willingly provide creditable references.

Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.

Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the desired thickness of the cementitious material, the depth of a sand bed if the heating cable is being installed under the cementitious material, the thickness of the insulation, and the depth of the aggregate base necessary for proper drainage.

Compaction: Proper compaction is essential and must be given a great deal of care.

Make certain that the entire area to be covered by the cementitious material is completely and properly compacted.

Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of the cementitious material, a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate should be laid over the entire area, plus one foot around the perimeter.

Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of the cementitious material, reinforcement materials must always be considered as part of the installation.

Examples of reinforcement materials include fibers in concrete, welded wire fabric, plastic lath, etc.

Insulation: Insulation under concrete and pavers is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snowmelt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand, insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.

Geometric Shapes: Concrete tends to break into a square geometric shape. As a result I recommend that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in undesirable cracks at undesirable locations. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.

Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the concrete, the heating element should never be allowed to run through it. Always jumper under or around any and all joints.

Thickness: I recommend that the following thickness be observed:

Concrete 5 or more inches

Asphalt 4 or more inches

Pavers 4 or less inches

Suggested Mix: A six-bag mix with fiber or steel reinforcement should always be used when pouring concrete unless the structural or traffic profile requires a different mix.

I am confident that by following the above concrete suggestions you will be rewarded with concrete that looks good and lasts for many years. In the event you purchase a snow melting system and follow the above concrete suggestions you will increase the likelihood that the heating cable is able to perform for years to come by reducing the possibility that it will get damaged or broken by vertical or horizontal movement of the material in which it is embedded.

A Few Concrete Suggestions

Up until a few years ago, my professional experience was in industries including retail, energy, health care, and fast food. In 1996 circumstances and opportunity led me into the manufacturing, marketing, and installation of products used for Floor Warming, Total Space Heating, Roof Snow and Ice Melting and Snow and Ice Melting of driving and walking surfaces.

Since three out of the four applications for my company's products may be installed into new pour cementitious material like concrete, I quickly determined two things: first, that anything embedded into cementitious materials is only as good as that cementitious material; and second, that the long term happiness and satisfaction of my many of my customers was dependent on the integrity and quality of the work of others. What I did not know, but I have since discovered, is that not all concrete work is of the same quality and that while my company's heating element carries a 25 year warranty, concrete warranties are generally relatively short. As a result of this discrepancy in horizons, I quickly determined that if I wanted to be successful I needed to learn more about concrete, its installation, and the preparation required to insure a high quality job.

Since making that determination I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to observe and evaluate many new concrete pours and examine a lot of very old, yet still perfectly good, concrete. As a result of these opportunities I have noted several things that exceptional concrete professionals routinely do and I am convinced that these things, along with high quality materials, result in superior concrete projects. For more information go to : http://www.warmquest.com

Please note that I am not a concrete professional and that my motivations for writing this article are limited to attempting to insure that:

a) your concrete will look as good as possible and last for many years in the future; and,

b) if you elect to install my company's snow and ice melt products, or anyone else's for that matter, it is able to serve its intended purpose for many years to come.

Now for a Few Concrete Suggestions:

Professionals: Always use professionals that have a proven track record and willingly provide creditable references.

Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.

Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the desired thickness of the cementitious material, the depth of a sand bed if the heating cable is being installed under the cementitious material, the thickness of the insulation, and the depth of the aggregate base necessary for proper drainage.

Compaction: Proper compaction is essential and must be given a great deal of care.

Make certain that the entire area to be covered by the cementitious material is completely and properly compacted.

Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of the cementitious material, a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate should be laid over the entire area, plus one foot around the perimeter.

Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of the cementitious material, reinforcement materials must always be considered as part of the installation.

Examples of reinforcement materials include fibers in concrete, welded wire fabric, plastic lath, etc.

Insulation: Insulation under concrete and pavers is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snowmelt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand, insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.

Geometric Shapes: Concrete tends to break into a square geometric shape. As a result I recommend that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in undesirable cracks at undesirable locations. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.

Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the concrete, the heating element should never be allowed to run through it. Always jumper under or around any and all joints.

Thickness: I recommend that the following thickness be observed:

Concrete 5 or more inches

Asphalt 4 or more inches

Pavers 4 or less inches

Suggested Mix: A six-bag mix with fiber or steel reinforcement should always be used when pouring concrete unless the structural or traffic profile requires a different mix.

I am confident that by following the above concrete suggestions you will be rewarded with concrete that looks good and lasts for many years. In the event you purchase a snow melting system and follow the above concrete suggestions you will increase the likelihood that the heating cable is able to perform for years to come by reducing the possibility that it will get damaged or broken by vertical or horizontal movement of the material in which it is embedded.

A Few Concrete Suggestions

Up until a few years ago, my professional experience was in industries including retail, energy, health care, and fast food. In 1996 circumstances and opportunity led me into the manufacturing, marketing, and installation of products used for Floor Warming, Total Space Heating, Roof Snow and Ice Melting and Snow and Ice Melting of driving and walking surfaces.

Since three out of the four applications for my company's products may be installed into new pour cementitious material like concrete, I quickly determined two things: first, that anything embedded into cementitious materials is only as good as that cementitious material; and second, that the long term happiness and satisfaction of my many of my customers was dependent on the integrity and quality of the work of others. What I did not know, but I have since discovered, is that not all concrete work is of the same quality and that while my company's heating element carries a 25 year warranty, concrete warranties are generally relatively short. As a result of this discrepancy in horizons, I quickly determined that if I wanted to be successful I needed to learn more about concrete, its installation, and the preparation required to insure a high quality job.

Since making that determination I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to observe and evaluate many new concrete pours and examine a lot of very old, yet still perfectly good, concrete. As a result of these opportunities I have noted several things that exceptional concrete professionals routinely do and I am convinced that these things, along with high quality materials, result in superior concrete projects. For more information go to : http://www.warmquest.com

Please note that I am not a concrete professional and that my motivations for writing this article are limited to attempting to insure that:

a) your concrete will look as good as possible and last for many years in the future; and,

b) if you elect to install my company's snow and ice melt products, or anyone else's for that matter, it is able to serve its intended purpose for many years to come.

Now for a Few Concrete Suggestions:

Professionals: Always use professionals that have a proven track record and willingly provide creditable references.

Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.

Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the desired thickness of the cementitious material, the depth of a sand bed if the heating cable is being installed under the cementitious material, the thickness of the insulation, and the depth of the aggregate base necessary for proper drainage.

Compaction: Proper compaction is essential and must be given a great deal of care.

Make certain that the entire area to be covered by the cementitious material is completely and properly compacted.

Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of the cementitious material, a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate should be laid over the entire area, plus one foot around the perimeter.

Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of the cementitious material, reinforcement materials must always be considered as part of the installation.

Examples of reinforcement materials include fibers in concrete, welded wire fabric, plastic lath, etc.

Insulation: Insulation under concrete and pavers is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snowmelt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand, insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.

Geometric Shapes: Concrete tends to break into a square geometric shape. As a result I recommend that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in undesirable cracks at undesirable locations. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.

Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the concrete, the heating element should never be allowed to run through it. Always jumper under or around any and all joints.

Thickness: I recommend that the following thickness be observed:

Concrete 5 or more inches

Asphalt 4 or more inches

Pavers 4 or less inches

Suggested Mix: A six-bag mix with fiber or steel reinforcement should always be used when pouring concrete unless the structural or traffic profile requires a different mix.

I am confident that by following the above concrete suggestions you will be rewarded with concrete that looks good and lasts for many years. In the event you purchase a snow melting system and follow the above concrete suggestions you will increase the likelihood that the heating cable is able to perform for years to come by reducing the possibility that it will get damaged or broken by vertical or horizontal movement of the material in which it is embedded.

A Few Concrete Suggestions

Up until a few years ago, my professional experience was in industries including retail, energy, health care, and fast food. In 1996 circumstances and opportunity led me into the manufacturing, marketing, and installation of products used for Floor Warming, Total Space Heating, Roof Snow and Ice Melting and Snow and Ice Melting of driving and walking surfaces.

Since three out of the four applications for my company's products may be installed into new pour cementitious material like concrete, I quickly determined two things: first, that anything embedded into cementitious materials is only as good as that cementitious material; and second, that the long term happiness and satisfaction of my many of my customers was dependent on the integrity and quality of the work of others. What I did not know, but I have since discovered, is that not all concrete work is of the same quality and that while my company's heating element carries a 25 year warranty, concrete warranties are generally relatively short. As a result of this discrepancy in horizons, I quickly determined that if I wanted to be successful I needed to learn more about concrete, its installation, and the preparation required to insure a high quality job.

Since making that determination I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to observe and evaluate many new concrete pours and examine a lot of very old, yet still perfectly good, concrete. As a result of these opportunities I have noted several things that exceptional concrete professionals routinely do and I am convinced that these things, along with high quality materials, result in superior concrete projects. For more information go to : http://www.warmquest.com

Please note that I am not a concrete professional and that my motivations for writing this article are limited to attempting to insure that:

a) your concrete will look as good as possible and last for many years in the future; and,

b) if you elect to install my company's snow and ice melt products, or anyone else's for that matter, it is able to serve its intended purpose for many years to come.

Now for a Few Concrete Suggestions:

Professionals: Always use professionals that have a proven track record and willingly provide creditable references.

Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.

Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the desired thickness of the cementitious material, the depth of a sand bed if the heating cable is being installed under the cementitious material, the thickness of the insulation, and the depth of the aggregate base necessary for proper drainage.

Compaction: Proper compaction is essential and must be given a great deal of care.

Make certain that the entire area to be covered by the cementitious material is completely and properly compacted.

Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of the cementitious material, a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate should be laid over the entire area, plus one foot around the perimeter.

Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of the cementitious material, reinforcement materials must always be considered as part of the installation.

Examples of reinforcement materials include fibers in concrete, welded wire fabric, plastic lath, etc.

Insulation: Insulation under concrete and pavers is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snowmelt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand, insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.

Geometric Shapes: Concrete tends to break into a square geometric shape. As a result I recommend that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in undesirable cracks at undesirable locations. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.

Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the concrete, the heating element should never be allowed to run through it. Always jumper under or around any and all joints.

Thickness: I recommend that the following thickness be observed:

Concrete 5 or more inches

Asphalt 4 or more inches

Pavers 4 or less inches

Suggested Mix: A six-bag mix with fiber or steel reinforcement should always be used when pouring concrete unless the structural or traffic profile requires a different mix.

I am confident that by following the above concrete suggestions you will be rewarded with concrete that looks good and lasts for many years. In the event you purchase a snow melting system and follow the above concrete suggestions you will increase the likelihood that the heating cable is able to perform for years to come by reducing the possibility that it will get damaged or broken by vertical or horizontal movement of the material in which it is embedded.

Concrete Cutting - Don't Let a Little Bit of Concrete Stop You

What is Concrete Cutting?

Concrete cutting is a process of controlled sawing, drilling and removal of concrete performed by skilled operators using special saws that use diamond impregnated blades. Unlike the old- fashioned dusty "jack hammer" method, modern concrete cutting leaves a smooth attractive finish and utilizes water so as not to create any dust or mess. There are many different kinds of concrete cutting but the most common are wall sawing, core drilling and slab or flat sawing.

Wall Sawing is the process of cutting openings such as doors or windows in concrete walls, usually no more than 12" thick but in some cases up to 24" thick. This is accomplished by using a saw that attaches to a track on the wall to be cut. This process utilizes an enormous 30" or even larger diameter diamond blade that can cut 12" or more of concrete all of the way through from one side. This aspect of our business requires the most skill and cannot easily be done by your average "do it yourselfer." As stated, wall sawing may entail cutting openings in concrete foundations but may also include lowering a foundation elevation, entire foundation removal and also the cutting of concrete retaining walls in part or in whole. This type of concrete cutting requires skill and experience to cut perfectly smooth plumb and level openings with virtually no dust or mess, so it is a rather expensive service. Most concrete cutting companies charge a minimum of $425 just to take their equipment to a site and cut.

Homeowners that build additions on to their home that have basements or cellars commonly find they need to cut into their existing concrete foundation to add an entry or passage between the new and existing basements. It is much easier and in most cases less expensive to have this service performed during the construction process and not after.

Core Drilling is the process of drilling perfectly round holes through concrete walls and floors. The diameters of the holes range from 1" to 12" round but average 5" for most homeowner applications. In commercial applications core holes can range anywhere up to 60" round and more. Core holes are used for "utility penetrations" such as electrical, plumbing and heating but are also commonly used for venting furnaces or clothes dryers. Although not recommended, core drilling can be performed by an advanced "do it yourselfer" and the equipment necessary to perform core drilling is readily available at your local tool rental and supply store. Most companies have a minimum charge of $250 to core a hole for you and it can take a professional as little as 10 minutes to unload his equipment, core the hole, and reload his equipment. Yet, I have seen homeowners rent the equipment and spend an entire weekend trying to core a single hole and then call a professional to complete the project. Just like with any trade a professional concrete cutter will make his job look easy.

Slab sawing, also known as flat sawing, is used to cut horizontal flat concrete surfaces such as floors, bridge decks and pavement. Slab saws feature a diamond blade that is mounted on a walk-behind machine that requires only one operator. They can cut up to 33 inches in depth but generally only 6" or less is necessary in most homeowner applications. Slab sawing is the perfect solution for making penetrations or openings in concrete floors to access and repair a broken water pipe or sewer line. When a basement or cellar is being remodeled to add a bathroom the concrete is removed to add new plumbing for the fixtures. A slab saw is also useful in demolition work to break up and remove a cracked or unwanted patio, driveway or walkway. Sometimes a homeowner might want just part of a patio or other concrete slab cut in order to alter their landscaping. Attempting a slab saw project can be very time consuming for your average "do it yourselfer" however it can be accomplished. I always recommend spending a few extra bucks and saving yourself some very serious danger and aggravation by contracting a concrete cutting professional.

No matter what your project is, don't let a little concrete stand in your way. Concrete can be a homeowner's worst obstacle if he or she doesn't know that there are companies out there that specialize in removing it very quickly and neatly. To find a reputable concrete cutter I recommend that you start with the yellow pages and always check them out with your local Better Business Bureau or your local Department of Consumer Protection. To get more acquainted with the industry just do a search for "concrete cutting" and check out a few websites dedicated to the subject.

(c) Copyright 2007 Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling, All Rights Reserved

A Few Concrete Suggestions

Up until a few years ago, my professional experience was in industries including retail, energy, health care, and fast food. In 1996 circumstances and opportunity led me into the manufacturing, marketing, and installation of products used for Floor Warming, Total Space Heating, Roof Snow and Ice Melting and Snow and Ice Melting of driving and walking surfaces.

Since three out of the four applications for my company's products may be installed into new pour cementitious material like concrete, I quickly determined two things: first, that anything embedded into cementitious materials is only as good as that cementitious material; and second, that the long term happiness and satisfaction of my many of my customers was dependent on the integrity and quality of the work of others. What I did not know, but I have since discovered, is that not all concrete work is of the same quality and that while my company's heating element carries a 25 year warranty, concrete warranties are generally relatively short. As a result of this discrepancy in horizons, I quickly determined that if I wanted to be successful I needed to learn more about concrete, its installation, and the preparation required to insure a high quality job.

Since making that determination I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to observe and evaluate many new concrete pours and examine a lot of very old, yet still perfectly good, concrete. As a result of these opportunities I have noted several things that exceptional concrete professionals routinely do and I am convinced that these things, along with high quality materials, result in superior concrete projects. For more information go to : http://www.warmquest.com

Please note that I am not a concrete professional and that my motivations for writing this article are limited to attempting to insure that:

a) your concrete will look as good as possible and last for many years in the future; and,

b) if you elect to install my company's snow and ice melt products, or anyone else's for that matter, it is able to serve its intended purpose for many years to come.

Now for a Few Concrete Suggestions:

Professionals: Always use professionals that have a proven track record and willingly provide creditable references.

Dry Base: Make certain that the ground below where the new asphalt, concrete or pavers will be located is as dry as possible. It is recommended that it be covered whenever there is a risk of a storm for one to two weeks prior to the pour.

Excavation: Be sure that your excavation is deep enough to accommodate the desired thickness of the cementitious material, the depth of a sand bed if the heating cable is being installed under the cementitious material, the thickness of the insulation, and the depth of the aggregate base necessary for proper drainage.

Compaction: Proper compaction is essential and must be given a great deal of care.

Make certain that the entire area to be covered by the cementitious material is completely and properly compacted.

Drainage: In order to have proper drainage and to reduce the likelihood of vertical shifting of the cementitious material, a minimum of 6 inches of high quality aggregate should be laid over the entire area, plus one foot around the perimeter.

Reinforcement: In order to enhance the integrity of the cementitious material, reinforcement materials must always be considered as part of the installation.

Examples of reinforcement materials include fibers in concrete, welded wire fabric, plastic lath, etc.

Insulation: Insulation under concrete and pavers is a two edged sword. On the one hand, it acts as a good moisture barrier, reduces the response time of your snowmelt or heating system, and saves money by reducing operating time. On the other hand, insulation does not allow the heat from the ground to get into the asphalt, concrete, or pavers.

Geometric Shapes: Concrete tends to break into a square geometric shape. As a result I recommend that concrete be poured in square sections no larger than 9.5 feet X 9.5 feet. Pouring other geometric shapes without additional joints almost always results in undesirable cracks at undesirable locations. Each square must always have a joint on each of its four sides.

Jumpers: It does not matter what kind of joint is in the concrete, the heating element should never be allowed to run through it. Always jumper under or around any and all joints.

Thickness: I recommend that the following thickness be observed:

Concrete 5 or more inches

Asphalt 4 or more inches

Pavers 4 or less inches

Suggested Mix: A six-bag mix with fiber or steel reinforcement should always be used when pouring concrete unless the structural or traffic profile requires a different mix.

I am confident that by following the above concrete suggestions you will be rewarded with concrete that looks good and lasts for many years. In the event you purchase a snow melting system and follow the above concrete suggestions you will increase the likelihood that the heating cable is able to perform for years to come by reducing the possibility that it will get damaged or broken by vertical or horizontal movement of the material in which it is embedded.